ITALY PART II

ITALY, PART II:

Ciao amici e parenti,

So our Italian adventure has come to an end, what an amazing country! We had the best three weeks there and definitely will be returning. For now though it’s time to kick back and relax for the next 7days, while we sail through the islands of Croatia. If you don’t have the itch to travel by the end of this post, wait for Croatia, we’re already so impressed. Most of all we are looking forward to not having to move our bags for 7 whole days! Here’s what we got up to over the last 11days.

Cinque Terre, La Spezia & Porto Venere, Italy:

Day 27: Today we caught the train from Venezia to Florence, then a train from Florence to La Spezia. We met our host’s brother who didn’t speak English at the train station. I had the worst Carbonara I’ve ever had for lunch. Some less than impressive gelato was involved. Overall, standard day.

Day 28: Today we ticked off another bucket list item, visiting the Cinque Terre! We had both seen so many amazing photos and heard from so many people that it is a must-do, we could hardly contain our excitement! Our Air BnB came with complementary breakfast at a café near-by so we quickly inhaled our chocolate-filled croissants and skulled our mediocre coffees and headed to the train station. It seemed that EVERYONE else in La Spezia, and possibly the world, had arrived at the same time.  So we joined the queue and waited… for 45minutes! There were only two people staffing the ticket booth? Finally we got on the train and headed to Riomaggoire. After only 8minutes we had arrived and it was amazing! We walked as high as we could to get the best view, but a lot of the local paths had been damaged from landslides and were blocked off. Two of the four paths that connect the five towns were completely cut off because of all the damage, including Lovers Lane, which was particularly devastating as I had hoped to put a lock there since the bridge in Paris is being pulled down. I’m over trying to visit romantic places though, first the Trevi Fountain and now this… I give up! So we walked through the streets then back to the train station to head off to the next town. This happened over and over for each town. The 3^rd town Corniglia, has 100s of steps you climb to get to, we climbed them before realizing there is a free shuttle bus from the station up to the town, we caught it back down. Manarola was our favourite! You could walk out to a point and look back to see the whole town. I think the ultimate way to see the towns overall would be from the sea, so you can get the full picture, but they’re still beautiful as is. We stayed in Monterosso the longest, enjoying a swim on a rocky beach. Trent would like me to add the ‘shoreys are bigger than Korora’, which can be supported by the number of rocks that ended up in his pants. Lol. After a huge day we headed home.

Day 29: Today started not so fresh. We woke up and ‘apparently’ I had thrown the iPad in my sleep onto the ground and had broken it. As a result we spent the first part of our morning with an Apple technician trying to get it fixed. He couldn’t help so we left that issue for another time. Then we had organized with our host to help us change a train ticket booking Trent had accidentally booked for the wrong day. We couldn’t amend the ticket either so we were forced to book and pay for a completely new one. The joys of travelling. Kidding, we have it so easy. We had planned to spend the entire day at Porto Venere, a 15minute ferry ride from La Spezia so we could swim and relax but by the time we had gotten ourselves together it was mid-afternoon and we only made it out there for a bit over an hour before the last ferry returned. It is beautiful there and we both highly recommend visiting. You can’t swim in La Spezia as it is just a giant port but you can swim out there and the water is beautiful! We had baguette and cheese for dinner because we’re poor and didn’t have cooking facilities then our host took us for the most amazing gelato! I had Cream of Vernazza and cherry, this is my favourite gelato experience to date, I highly recommend Cream of Vernazza. We then went for a drink and to a small festival.

Day 30: Today we spent the morning packing and skyping my family. Trent also got a haircut from ‘Mr. Fantasy’, an Italian barber who loves Australian’s so much he didn’t charge. Or maybe he just loves Trent? We weren’t in a position to question. We then boarded our train to Pisa and arrived a short time later. We arrived at our accommodation and the whole place was wide open but no one was around, so weird. Finally, some other guests arrived and told us the same thing had happened to them and that the guy would be ‘around’. We spent the afternoon doing absolutely nothing and had an early night. Our accommodation had a very weird vibe. We would not recommend staying there.

Pisa, Italy:

Day 31: Our host offered bikes free to hire so we borrowed them to get around Pisa (see photos to get a glimpse at just how fashionable we would have looked riding around town). We were told Pisa was only small so relied on chance, and directions from strangers, to get us around town. We found the Leaning Tower quite easily, it’s the only place in town where there are people. We chained our bikes up and walked around the grounds, people-watching everyone trying to line up their pose with the Tower. We had a picnic of fruit and baguettes with local cheese and salami on the grass and a coffee in one of the surrounding cafes. Then just as we were about to ride along the river my favourite boots broke! Well one of them broke, but as a result I was forced to ride with a one boot, one sock combo. On our already highly uncomfortable bikes we decided it was time to call it a day and rode home (after picking up some superglue to fix my shoe of course).

Day 32: This morning we had a train to catch at 6am, the bus schedule claimed that the bus left from outside our accommodation at 5am but in true Italian form, no bus arrived. We frantically searched for a phone number to call a taxi, not having any host to call on for assistance, it was pure luck that we found the correct phone number and made the train on time. We were lucky enough to have our entire cabin to ourselves on the train and were able to relax for the next 7hours. We arrived in Napoli around 3pm. When we made it to our accommodation we were greeted with 87 steps up to the door. Poor Trent. Our host wasn’t there, only her housekeeper who did not speak a word of English. This accommodation also had a weird feeling to it but the beautiful rooftop garden sort of made up for it.  Oh, and Trent’s iPad started working again- guess who owed who an apology!

Napoli, Italy:

Day 33: Today we climbed our first volcano, Mt Versuvius, regardless of whether it was still active or not, it still WAS a volcano. We caught the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli to Ercolano, then had intended to walk from the train station up to the top. This is absolutely impossible for anyone that wants it to take less than two days. There was a bus company right near the train station that took you about 20minutes from the top so we decided to catch that. When we arrived we realized how truly impossible the idea of walking from the train to the mountain was. It took us about 45minutes on a bus to get there. We were allowed an hour and a half to explore, which seems like a long time but we ended up having to sprint down the hill to make the bus in time. While the view is sort-of hazy it is still beautiful and definitely something we recommend doing.

Once we returned to the bus station we caught the train to Pompeii. As we were walking in we noticed a sign saying that the first Sunday of every month was free, we had no plans for the following day so decided to come back in the morning.

Day 34: This morning we went to Pompeii, it was amazing but there aren’t many signs indicating what you’re looking at and there’s only so much eavesdropping you can do on other people’s guided tours, so we only spent about an hour and a half here. We then caught the train to Sorrento, desperate for a swim we headed straight down to the beach. Our options were: swim in the oil-soaked water where all the boats were docked or pay to swim. Super disappointed we did a relatively quick walk through the town and headed home. Overall, Napoli was a pretty big low point for us in our trip. When locals are warning you about the people there before you even go you know something is up. It’s a very dirty city, people aren’t particularly friendly, there’s nothing to see in the city itself. Definitely would not recommend a visit, you can make it to surrounding tourist spots staying almost anywhere along the Amalfi Coast. We were happy to leave.

Day 35: Today we finally got to leave Napoli! I’ve probably painted it in a far more dramatic light than what it was really like, but it really wasn’t so great. Whatever. We caught the train from Napoli to Salerno then caught a bus to our accommodation in Atrani, a town about 500meters from Amalfi with a population of 900. Anyone who struggles even slightly with motion sickness, I’m warning you now, prepare for the worst. The road along the Amalfi Coast is easily the most dangerous I’ve ever experienced, full-size busses making hairpin turns on a road that look only wide enough for one-way traffic. Absolutely crazy, but absolutely worth it! We arrived in Atrani and met our host Leo. We dropped our bags, borrowed Leo’s sets of snorkles and goggles and headed straight to the beach. Atrani is so beautiful and we could not recommend staying here more. It feels much less touristy and crowded compared to Amalfi. Also, it was much cheaper for us to stay here, we paid around 80AUD/night for some sweet bunk beds in a private room, 2minutes from the beach. We had a questionable dinner of salted lettuce and salted veal (ordered chicken salads but whatever) then headed in for the night.

Atrani, Amalfi and Positano, Italy:

Day 36: Today was my favourite day so far. Trent claims there’s ‘been to many to name’, but this day was my favourite because we did nothing but relax. I can’t remember the last time I had a day where I didn’t HAVE to do at least one thing. I had intended to do some washing but our host’s wife, Alina, insisted she do it for me. We lay by the beach all day, snorkeling and swimming and tanning. So good. I worked 70+ hours for almost an entire year during my gap year and today was the day it finally all felt worth it. We had a picnic for dinner on the rocks overlooking the water. We had yummy local bread, mozzarella and salami and one of each type of fruit we could find in the fruit shop. We then walked around to Amalfi, where we decided that Atrani was better.

Day 37: This morning we had intended to walk the Path of the Gods, a 5hr trek from Borano to Positano. However, once we made it to Amalfi after breakfast the next bus wasn’t scheduled to leave for another hour and a half, which would have had us finishing the walk late in the evening. We had read stories of people who had done the walk without a guide and got lost causing it to take them 10hours. So we decided it was safer to not risk it and just do it another time. Instead we caught the bus to Positano. 18kms took us roughly 45minutes, no one is going anywhere quickly here that’s for sure! Positano is SO beautiful! We spent a few hours relaxing by the beach and wandering the streets here before heading back towards home. On our way to Positano we stopped to drop people off at a place called ‘Furore’ and decided that on our way home we would stop here and have a swim. It is a picture perfect tiny beach nestled between two cliffs, framed by the arch of the bridge, definitely worth a visit! We however, got stuck waiting for a bus for an hour and a half before giving in and having to catch a taxi for 30euros. Pretty over it we got some take away food in Amalfi and walked home.

Day 38: Today we said goodbye to Italy. We caught a bus from Atrani to Salerno, then a train from Salerno to Casserta, then waited two hours for another train to take us to Bari, then caught a cab from Bari station to the Port, then a bus from the Port to our ferry. Eventually we boarded and made very mediocre sleeping arrangements on the floor, but we were on our way to Croatia! YAY!

TIPS:

BUY CINQUE TERRE TICKETS EARLY: If you’re staying in La Spezia or another suburb outside the Cinque Terre and are going to be relying on the train to get you to/from, purchase your tickets early.

ACCOMMODATION FOR CINQUE TERRE: We stayed in La Spezia, an 8minute train-ride to Riomaggiore. We saved at least $200/night staying here rather than in one of the Terres. Plus we found it each Terre swarmed with tourists, something that makes such small towns really uncomfortable so being able to leave the congestion was nice. We also found that one day was plenty if you’re not walking the trail.

WALKING THE CINQUE TERRE TRAIL: We had intended to walk the trail; however when we arrived we were advised that two of the 4 tracks were closed due to landslides. I think this is a pretty common occurrence so prior research is key. Also, good walking shoes are a must according to the locals.

THE TRAINS ARE PACKED: You literally could not fit more people in if you tried. And quite often they don’t run on time. So allow plenty of time to get from place-to-place.

PISA: You can definitely do a half-day/ morning in Pisa. We wasted our time going for two nights. It’s very boring but it did give us a chance to have some down time.

MT VERSUVUIS: We caught the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli to Ercolano Scavi, then caught the Versuvius Express bus from the station to aprox 20minutes from the top of the Volcano. Note they only take cash and you can either just buy the bus ticket for 10euros or, bus and entry ticket for 20euros.

POMPEII: The first Sunday of every month is free from 9.30-12.30. If you have a true affinity with knowing more, a guide is the way to go. We found that whilst it was amazing, we didn’t know what we were looking at making it all seem like relatively the same rubble, so having a guide would’ve made things a lot more interesting. Wear good shoes for walking, the ground is uneven and slippery, Trent almost fell over about 10times. If you can’t make it there on the day which offers free entry it’s 13euros entry and 5euros for an audioguide.

THINGS NAPOLI IS GOOD FOR:

1.     To easily get to places like Mt Versuivius, Pompeii, Sorrento and Capri.

2.     To make you miss every other place you’ve ever been because it sucks so much.

THONGS ARE KEY: The one downfall of the Amalfi Coast is its rocky beaches. The rocks are dark and get really hot under the sun. Walking on them is so incredibly painful when you’re going to and from the water so most people wear their thongs right to the edge of the water and leave them there.

BUS TICKETS: Bus tickets for local buses can be bought in general stores, tobacconists and other random places. Not on the bus or at the stop.

FURORE: It might be better do visit here earlier in the day when more buses are running. The buses definitely run on their own time, which is understandable due to the traffic conditions.

FERRY: If you’re going to do an over-night ferry look into the price of a cabin rather than seating on the deck. It was fine for us because we needed to save the extra money but if you can afford it I would definitely not recommend sleeping on the floor. But the food on-board is decent.